A Travellerspoint blog

Canberra - A Tale of Two Sites

On Monday 27th January I took the Greyhound bus from Sydney to Canberra to explore the Australian capital city. En route we passed through Goulburn, Austrlia's first inland town and with many historical buildings including a station built in 1865 and painted such a shocking red it reminded me of the Clint Eastwood film 'High Plains Drifter'. The town is also home to 'The Big Merino', a 15metre high concrete ram nicknamed Rambo by the locals, and built as a monument to the district's wool industry. 70D1FCAA2219AC681788900C46016F5C.jpg There is a gift shop on the ground floor that sells all kinds of Australian made wool items including ugg boots.
A, very brief, history of Canberra. When the six separate British self governing colonies of Australia finally agreed on Federation the 'Commonwealth of Australia Constitution Act (UK) was given Royal Assent by Queen Victoria in July 1900 and proclaimed to the new nation in Centennial Park, Sydney, in January 1901. Both Sydney, the oldest colony in the Country, and Melbourne, the largest city were in dispute about where the home of the federal capital should be. Compromise was made and the new constitution stated that the capital could remain in New South Wales but it would be within a separate territory designated as the 'Australian Federal Territory' (now the Australian Capital Territory or ACT) and it had to be at least 100 miles from Sydney. Parliament would meanwhile sit in Melbourne.
Nine sites were considered and, in 1908, the area later (1913) to become known as Canberra was chosen. The name Canberra is said to derive from the Aboriginal word Kamberra meaning meeting place. In 1911 an international competition was held to select a design for the layout of the new city and this was won by an American architect, Walter Burley Griffin in collaberation with his architect wife, Marion Mahoney Griffin. The design was a series of hexagonal shapes which could be extended ad infinitum as the city grew.
The current map shows some of these but also lots of interconnecting circles that have become the Canberra of today. F6BD87932219AC68173986262312EA69.jpg The marked area is the one that I had the opportunity to explore during my three day visit.
I stayed in the YHA hostel which is very centrally located on Akuna Street and not far from the coach station on Northbourne Avenue. The hostel itself is pretty good with a pool, sauna and bar in the basement and a vey nice rooftop bbq area with great views. F4E48C862219AC681715D42FDA75A162.jpg 70F3744D2219AC6817AC7D50F24F6369.jpg January 27th is a national Bank Holiday so the city was very quiet and a good time to walk around the area and take photographs. What struck me most was how spacious the city is, it's not that the roads are particularly wide but the verges leading from them to buildings, both corporate and domestic, are and there are trees everywhere.
The 'city' is where most of the businesses and the shopping areas are and this is on one side of Lake Burley Griffin F45F7C6A2219AC6817199DE4EB2198E4.jpg and on the other side is the 'Parliamentary Zone'. F46D270E2219AC6817AE80B19CF2B7E4.jpg These are connected by two road/pedestrian bridges F48427322219AC6817CB3FA35F195F41.jpgF49656222219AC681776F985E4754913.jpg from which you can get a brilliant view of the fountain in the centre of the lake. F478324C2219AC68177A6CCA79B224A1.jpg
The city centre is full of interesting statues 71155D112219AC6817F5DFCCB9F87EB8.jpg7129ED4D2219AC6817B89C1AAEAE9ED1.jpg713B293E2219AC681790B8CFC9659407.jpg and in the middle of the shopping area is a childrens carousel and fountain. 710446952219AC68179A167C230E9312.jpg The shopping centre has a good mix of shops and the number and style of restaurants you would expect from a business district as well as some off beat businesses F4B780082219AC6817797D6CCDE49802.jpgF4B0CD782219AC6817E6BFAC763EEEA9.jpg and interesting little arcades.F4BFC0FD2219AC681776010C82E53898.jpg
On Tuesday I visited the Canberra Museum and Gallery and the Australian War Memorial F51022592219AC6817A6D30A5E325F77.jpg a remarkable place that acknowledges sacrifice on all sides, without judgement, and presents the history of conflict in a factual but completely galvanising way. It's respect for the nation's dead is palpable and the Hall of Memory contains the actual tomb of an unknown Australian soldier brought home and laid here to represent all those lost on foreign battlefields. F5052FA12219AC68172A0F958E8678D3.jpgF51878162219AC68179676FC18190FC9.jpg The view from the War Memorial is straight down Anzac Parade over the lake and up to Parliament House F4FB5ABA2219AC68179DC0A40D4C4920.jpg and Anzac Parade is lined on both sides with statues commemorating the dead in all the various wars and actions. F530F2D62219AC6817B9B898C8AE3A48.jpgF538BE062219AC68178A1AB88514F6F0.jpgF54074D82219AC6817FABE118FAA0360.jpg Right alongside this quite busy thoroughfare, and actually in the middle of the city, are quiet leafy suburbs. F526FC3E2219AC6817405CD37D93EEB7.jpg It's like walking between two different worlds!
The National Capital Exhibition on the North shore of Lake Burley Griffin is a good starting point for anyone visiting and gives a thorough background to the origin and development of the city.
On Wednesday I did the half hour walk over the lake into the Parliamentary Zone F5F204212219AC68174DE8870745A045.jpg and up to Parliament House.F5F41B432219AC681710035DF7A62D01.jpg It is built into Capitol Hill in order to 'blend' more but it still seems fairly conspicuous to me. The interiors are light and modern F5F4E82F2219AC68171382A263B45915.jpg and there is an excellent exhibition explaining the parliamentary system and with some extremely good art works but I found the chambers to be quite stark. F5F5C3682219AC68178B2B23A323A382.jpgF5F6A2412219AC6817E5C06C62792245.jpg Interestingly, and obviously by design, both chambers are exactly the same size despite the fact that there are 76 Senators and 150 members of the House of Representatives. I believe this was so that neither chamber would be seen to be more significant although clearly those in The Senate enjoy significantly more comfortable seating.
The Old House of Parliament, now the Museum of Australian Democracy,F557E8502219AC68171981587C97CAC3.jpgF561C8F42219AC68178238EDCD5134AE.jpg has a much more traditional interior and the chambers there are what we would expect from a building first used in 1927. It was built to house 300 people as a temporary measure whilst a more suitable design could be arrived at. The intervening wars meant changing economic policies that would not allow the cost of erection of the new Parliament House and it was not until 1988 that the current Parliament House was opened. By this time 3000 people were working in the old building and toilets, broom cupboards and any other space was being pressed into service to accommodate desks. The last Prime Minister to sit in Old Parliament House was Bob Hawke and his old office 0585F58A2219AC6817C28B437D5B9EDA.jpg and admin rooms are open to the public.
Outside the building a few protesters sympathetic to the Aboriginal cause have pitched tents and erected an 'embassy' F5F3424D2219AC6817129F1CBEDE5929.jpg there was no police presence and, in fact, not much evidence of anybody. Perhaps it was too hot!
The National Gallery of Australia was fascinating but I was not allowed to take photographs inside. F5F777072219AC68170487CB3065CB5E.jpgF5F8BE4C2219AC6817821FC510B36D82.jpg and, right next door, the High Court of Australia is by it's own admission 'an example of late modern Brutalist architecture'. F5F9D1152219AC6817FE0F278D58B0D9.jpg Inside 'though it's spaces are amazing,F5FAA4B62219AC6817331D4290740C7E.jpgF5FBD4BF2219AC68171538A568875A9B.jpgF5FD0E4C2219AC68170FB7C0ED1A3E37.jpg none of the three courts, including the High Court, were intimidating. F5FE01212219AC68177412D18EF9EFE5.jpg and the view from it's windows is lovely. F60025792219AC68177D0BD11E563BB6.jpg
Between the High Court and Questacon is Reconciliation Place built in 2001 as a symbol of reconciiation between the Indigenous and settler populations and the winning design for it includes for additions to be made over time to recognise that reconcilaton is an ongoing process. F60118902219AC68179D1D3DD9FCC0FD.jpg
I poked my nose into Questacon, the National Science and Technology Centre which has 200 interactive exhibits, but this was obviously on the '10 Must Do Things With Your Family' list so I gave it a miss and headed back to the YHA bar for a cold beer.
With my last few hours on Thursday I walked around the lake to the National Museum of Australia and wow! I think this is possibly the best museum I have ever been to! The gallery spaces are extraordinary F602191F2219AC6817A42E80E4244D84.jpgF60316682219AC68179E4C980EE21F0A.jpg and the exhibits are well designed and completely relevant and although I spent three hours there a whole day would have been more satisfying. To put it in perspective, Australia is a very young country and so museums here do not have to cover the centuries of historical, cultural and political information and artefacts that European museums do, nonetheless what they have done here with what they have got is truly impressive.
Canberra is a modern, urban and architecturally stark city with wide lanes of traffic F4A0830A2219AC68173977F53DED9657.jpg and Lake Burley Griffin bisecting it. It is also a place definitely worth visiting and unfortunately my limited time there did not allow me to go to the Botanical Gardens, the Arboretum, Telstra Tower or the National Film and Sound Archive. I will just have to go back! ?

Posted by busyboots 23:02 Comments (1)

The Blue Mountains

On Monday 20th January Becky and I decided to go up to the Blue Mountains National Park (about 65 miles West of Sydney) and to overnight at the YHA at Katoomba with the intention of going for a hike on Tuesday. We stopped at Leura, a really pretty little town with lots of cafes, high end gift shops and antique shops and Cafe Madeleine serves hot chocolate that looks like a desert in a glass. The chocolate is from Josophans, also in this road, where hand made chocolates are created on the premises.349919DE2219AC6817CDBC6D2E95C677.jpg34AF33272219AC681727090BCE9510C4.jpg34A55CE82219AC68178A823D6F1B035A.jpg
Just a few miles away at Katoomba the YHA hostel is a former hotel now restored as a National Trust building. It has the usual big kitchen and dining area but also one whole room of comfortable sofas and bean bags and the age of guests is much more mixed than the one I stayed at in Adelaide. Katoomba is the biggest town in the Blue Mountains and the centre for adrenaline filled acivities such as rock climbing, abseiling, canyoning, trekking and horse riding. There are several businesses offering these activities and you can also take a Harley Davidson tour and a walk into indigenous history, life and bush tucker with two different Aboriginal companies.
Monday evening we had a walk around Katoomba 34CCA7502219AC6817444F0F68BD7FB7.jpg34D3F2162219AC6817BD96966E9D7B01.jpg before settling into The Old Bank Bar and Brasserie for beer and a burger. 34D9BD342219AC6817658EDC748AFB25.jpg
It rained quite a bit during Monday night and when we woke up on Tuesday morning the mist was so thick we could not even see past the end of the garden. We decided to drive out to Govetts Leap anyway and this is what we saw 34E367A52219AC68174495AAB6B3612E.jpg so we drove a couple of miles back to Blackheath where there was a big indoor antiques mall where we spent an interesting hour 34FFB6AC2219AC68171C9EA049444D36.jpg I bought a couple of small things whilst Becky found a quiet corner and revisited Roald Dahl 35066EFD2219AC68174883B3D218027F.jpg?. When we came back out the mist was clearing so we thought we would take a chance and go back to Govetts Leap. En route we spotted these brilliantly painted buildings 34F9F8502219AC681769A95E032386FF.jpg 34F4505D2219AC681730F24424408D33.jpg (public toilets and a bus shelter] apparently the municipal authority puts up concrete buildings and then commissions artists to paint them.
When we got back to Govetts Leap what a difference. 3532E16D2219AC6817709A3812E88B7D.jpg 3539DBE72219AC681704D9D3B6094B02.jpgIt was stunning! Becky took me for another of thse walks 3584C2972219AC6817C6E26EDBB7B025.jpg but it was worth it 356FCF0C2219AC68173BABFE648D61A5.jpg352C8CB22219AC68179A50CD2AD87FB5.jpg358D569F2219AC68174F16EF34F774A1.jpg3593275A2219AC68179A60E82A832390.jpg although I was pleased to get back to the car park. 359B31962219AC6817BB79C6A26D3DE5.jpg
Walks in the mountains are well signposted with length, duration and difficulty level and the information centres are an excellent source of guidance and advice about everything from history and culture to campsites, water and safety. Personal Location Beacons can be borrowed from the information centre at Blackheath and these are designed to work even when you don't have a mobile 'phone signal.
We headed back to Katoomba and Echo Point, which is a much busier viewpoint than Govetts Leap 35A357672219AC6817954F8E50C82EF8.jpgand we were rewarded with amazing views, particularly of the Three Sisters. 35AD8B002219AC68174C20A944E060B0.jpgLegend has it that an Aboriginal chief turned his three daughters into stone to stop them being carried away by rival tribesmen but he died before he managed to reverse the curse and nobody has ever been able to lift it. There is a bridge out to the Sisters for those brave enough 35B382862219AC6817F53CB7DE3ED1F7.jpgand not too far away is the Scenic World complex where you can take a cable car ride over the valley 35C1BF7F2219AC681787047A2D280E1A.jpg and another one down to the forest floor where a 2km boardwalk meanders through the rainforest. Ascent is either by the cableway or by the Scenic Railway (I believe it is the steepest in the world) which was originally built for the miners who worked the stone for coal.
The Bllue Mountains are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and got their name from the blue haze (evident in my last pics) which is caused by light reflecting off the droplets of oil from the Eucalyptus trees with which the mountain is densely populated. There is a HOHO Explorer Bus that operates in this area and will collect passengers from Katoomba railway station and take them to 29 different sites around the mountains including those I have mentioned. Katoomba is very easily accessible by train from Sydney.
We were fortunate with our few hours of sunshine because the weather closed in again towards the end of the afternoon. Our canyoning will have to wait for another day.

Posted by busyboots 03:05 Comments (1)

Why go to the hottest state in Australia in a heatwave?

In my case it is because I am an idiot who didn't do her research properly! If I had looked at the temperature forecast (40+c) before I booked my 'non-refundable' flight I would have had second thoughts. Walking around was like being in a sauna and the wind, which was constant, was like the blast from an oven door when you open it to check on your cooking.
Having said that Adelaide is a lovely city and I had a brilliant time. When you fly into Adelaide it looks like a soup bowl with a raised rim of hills surrounding a big, flat, plain of buildings. The majority of these are single storey bungalows or low rise houses and it is only within the one square mile of 'city'' that you get any high rise buildings and only a few of these reach fifteen floors. Most of the buildings within the city resemble Wild West structures and some of them have names to match. EC797E5F2219AC68177D185DBAB28621.jpgEC8359E02219AC6817D6FFB2B37726C9.jpgEC632DAE2219AC681707434431FC9F8F.jpgEC8CEBE62219AC681797DB99ACCB3D0D.jpgEC72D7292219AC68173C00A35EBC3465.jpg It is a city that likes it's statues and artistic graffiti ED1C446E2219AC6817F5B4FB5871AC99.jpgED24A2022219AC6817335CED684FD011.jpg and operates a free tram service from north to south 02E7B9C22219AC681772B33DCCEA4905.jpgand two free bus services, one which is a City Loop and the other is a small minibus, the 'Connecter' that links South Adelaide to North Adelaide . North Adelaide is host to many expensive homes, shops, St Peters Cathedral 04396D292219AC6817244486CBCBA06F.jpg and The Oval with it's famouse scoreboard. 044C2EB52219AC6817A5B3D2E0108D45.jpg045AFC232219AC68176845C740DA1738.jpg0465CCC12219AC6817A5520CC3D5B35F.jpg
I took a 10AUD tour around The Oval and it was well worth it. It is currently undergoing massive redevelopment and will become an international venue not just for cricket but for football, music (the Rolling Stones are playing there in March) and other major events. Due to the construction work there is nothing going on at the moment so our tour was able to include a visit to the pitch, players dressing rooms, the directors box and board room, the members bar and the TV boxes plus more. There is a really good exhibition dedicated to the life of Donald Bradman and although I am not a follower of cricket I found this a very worthwhile eperience. Also, and despite Richard's predictions, I did not experience any gloating about the fact that they thrashed us in the Ashes.
Of course I had to do the usual museum visit and there were brilliant exhibitions dedicated to Aboriginal life and craft 3D240EF72219AC6817B84E28892191D1.jpg3D3992452219AC68179D4326E2F77A70.jpg as well as a seriously good Pacific Cultures gallery .037C7DEB2219AC681742F418A5D0232F.jpg038C7CD72219AC6817FC3079F1681C8E.jpg03A45DAC2219AC68179465046CB86F8B.jpg
There seem to be several universities represented in the city, South Australia, Adelaide and Flinders and their buildings are all located on North Terrace along with a wonderful art gallery 03C17E6B2219AC68179B048606202921.jpg03CB93B62219AC68176CF0DF2DD8A411.jpg03D3CED32219AC6817834AABF38BB346.jpg which has some interesting exhibits 40B0BF5C2219AC68178F2F7662BAEB98.jpg including a 'Stone Circle' made with Cornish stone 04226BB42219AC68176D63E367CC22C4.jpg There are some informative paintings of the beginnings of the colony 40BAB5F22219AC6817963515BD23C22C.jpg40C222922219AC681709196AECD6C189.jpg many of them by immigrant English and Scotsmen.
I stayed at the YHA in a six bed female dorm which was perfectly okay except that next time I will take my eyeshades and earplugs. The other ladies were fine but clearly didn't understand the concept of preparing for an early start before they went to bed so lots of zipping and unzipping and flashing of torches, pre-dawn, which was rather annoying. I have got several more trips to get used to it. The accommodation was excellent, beds really comfortable, sheets immaculate and showers/toilets clean and efficient. A very central location, so easy access to everything, and helpful staff.
The Botanic Gardens were small but lovely 0485F9FF2219AC681738071B06566BB8.jpg04970A642219AC681736A4EB743FC43B.jpg04A798612219AC6817B0792282D74AF3.jpg33E340722219AC6817931D8958702789.jpg but the Centennial glass house didn't square up to The Eden Project in Cornwall.
On my last day there I went to Parliament House and had a tour round that with a German couple and I was persuaded by our guide to sit in the President's (speaker's) chair in the Legislative Council chamber 3CAF98B12219AC6817A189F511232E3F.jpg where, apparently, QE2 herself sat during the opening of the original parliament. I tried to my best to give a Regal wave but I'm not sure it was comparable.
Also toured the Migration Museum which has a really good, detailed history of the first settlers (Adelaide was the only Australian city to be completely populated with free settlers rather than convicts) and also of the migrants 3CBB64182219AC68178FEDFD019F40D5.jpg and refugees of successive generations.
My last visit was to Ayers House 422CC7B12219AC6817FE4780D4C96C9F.jpgHenry Ayers was a Portsmouth poor boy made good who became a very significant figure in Adelaide society and politics and Ayers Rock (Uluru) was named for him after it's 'discovery' by a colonial expedition.
Adelaide is about to host a major cycling event 3C91C94B2219AC68175C1E09C1BAFF5E.jpg and in March the Adelaide festival, with a fringe list to rival that of Edinburgh, is to take place.
If Sydney is the teenager of the Australian family then Adelaide is the benevolent maiden aunt. Slightly dusty but completely charming and gracious with a generous heart and impeccable manners. Everyone I met was welcoming and hospitable. Australia is definitely not just about The Opera House, The Bridge, Bondi Beach and Uluru. I am so pleased that I had the opportunity to visit this lovely city and can completely understand why Lonely Planet have recognised it as one of the top ten worldwide destinations to visit in 2014.

Posted by busyboots 03:18 Comments (3)

A magical day

Took an early train into Sydney yesterday to try to beat the crowds and went straight to the Art Gallery of New South Wales. The exterior of the building is nothing particularly special but the lobby is absolutely lovely and the galleries are modern, light and spacious. EAB703912219AC68176A63D900A5CAB2.jpgEAE8F1592219AC681761F5509F2E1247.jpgEAE4259F2219AC681724EBC67555EDAB.jpg There are some impressive artworks here and some of the installations are quite amazing. EACEDE1D2219AC68174FE06182E28B47.jpgEACA00112219AC681703D2636FD09D8A.jpgEAD72B912219AC6817318D6AF4C6E42A.jpg These are not real flying foxes a la Damien Hirst, they are carved from wood and the detail is extraordinary.
I spent a wonderful couple of hours there and then went around the corner to Hyde Park Barracks where the first convicts were held and which later became an immigration centre for young female Irish orphans who were sent here to find work and/or husbands. EAAEDCA52219AC6817C58E0B7A4246B6.jpgEA9C74A72219AC6817754DEA9532E729.jpg There is an enormous amount of information in this museum about the beginnings of the colony and the lives of the first settlers. EAA512602219AC6817C05D0A3C2CA5C9.jpg I love this kind of stuff so I spent much more time here than I had originally intended. Some of my friends would call me a 'spotter' (you know who you are Clare) but I am like blotting paper when it comes to history and I make no apology for this!
The brilliant thing about this part of Sydney is that you can literally walk out of one museum/gallery and go next door straight into another one...so I did. The mint museum was the next stop and that was fascinating not least because the original building and workings have been excavated right back to bare stone in places and the new museum reception area has been built inside it as a room within a room. It is obvious that a lot of historical buildings have been lost but those that are now under Heritage protection, which means the facade must be kept in the original form but the interiors can be changed, are beautifully managed. There has been a lot of 'peeling back' in these old buildings so that you can literally view the different layers of history within them. They are definitely worth visiting and many of them are competely free of charge.
Next door to the Mint Museum is the Sydney Hospital. The original building is still in use as a hospital and outside is this statue of a wild boar. It seems that if you rub his nose it will bring you good luck and you can see where the brass on his nose is really shiny from so many hands. You have to wonder what rubbing his penis brings since so many people have done it? image

image


Parliament House was next and although the house wont be sitting again until 25th February (when apparently question time is a 'must attend' event so I will have to go back) it is open to the pubic and was definitely worth checking out. EA7BF7EB2219AC68173C812BC2562AE8.jpg The Assembly Chamber EA9505B82219AC6817F6D956F87776FD.jpgEA8EE8632219AC681719E6E2CD029CD5.jpg may not be as opulent as the Council Chamber EA86B1842219AC6817B76617DE3C279A.jpg but I think it's members carry more clout.
Last on my list for the day was the State Library which has wonderful facilities for research and study, a lovely little coffee shop and a small but impressive bookshop. There is an exhibition of winning photo journalism pictures on the ground floor and some of these are shockingly evocative.
Tom and I finished the day with Pizza, a film and a bottle of wine. Yum! Unfortunately Becky was working shift last night but we will make it up to her tonight ?.
Today is a book and beach day (apologies to famiy and friends in the UK who are under water and those in the US who are freezing, I am not tryng to rub it in) and tomorrow I have been invited to bbq with some of T and B's friends so it should be a really relaxing weekend.
Monday I am flying to Adelaide for four days to explore that city. For a body acclimatised to the Northern Hemisphere it may not be one of the best decisions I have ever made given that it is forecast to be 41c ?. Hey ho! Lot's of water and sunscreen. Watch this space...

Posted by busyboots 12:44 Comments (1)

Simply stunning Sydney

Today I tok the train from Cronulla 9DB030A92219AC6817B1571F79FC3A1D.jpg to Sydney. A return off peak ticket was 9.20 AUD (about £5) for an hours trip each way and if you sit upstairs on these double decker trains 9D914D922219AC68173A5F1C65502E67.jpg you get a great view of the surrounding suburbs.
I knew from visiting Sydney briefly five years ago that it was great city but I had forgotten just how amazing it is. There really is something for everyone here particularly at the moment as the Sydney Festival is taking place and there are events going on everywhere. Music, theatre, dance ...you name it, there is loads of stuff for children, who are on their summer break, and almost all of it is free. The architecture of this city is an incredible blend of old and new with the harbour skyline dominated by the kind of buildings you associate with Miami but below them, and sharing the same space, are old colonial shop fronts and rows of small 19th century villas. The latter are mostly under Heritage protection and the shoulder to shoulder thing seems to work very well. 9D81E6852219AC68179EC89B07857261.jpg I spent the day on two HOHO bus tours, (quite a relief after the walking yesterday) the first one was a city tour and the second, after lunch, was Bondi Beach 9D7742EF2219AC681747B9EC834175FE.jpg and surrounding area. The area known as Dover Heights has some really beautiful houses, some of which have views of Sydney Harbour on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, there is undoubtedly some serious money in them there hills! As you drive down into Double Bay (apparently dubbed 'Double Pay' by locals) the shops, restaurants and cars confirm this.
Unfortunately it was very overcast, and my point and shoot was not up to the task of doing justice to all that I surveyed, but believe me this city is beautiful.
I didn't actually get off at any of the stops because I wanted to get the most out of my 24 hour ticket (40 AUD for both tours) and to use this opportunity to orientate myself within the city. I have already been around the Opera House and the Rocks and harbour area and I visited some of the 'must see' things during my last visit but I am looking forward to sampling from the smorgasbord of museums and galleries around the southern end of the Botanical Gardens tomorrow.

Posted by busyboots 00:41 Comments (0)

(Entries 36 - 40 of 42) « Page .. 3 4 5 6 7 [8] 9 »